The extracellular matrix (“ECM”) of the skin is extremely important in the aging process. Not only does the ECM provide the three-dimensional scaffolding needed for skin cell attachment and proper orientation of the skin, but the ECM also functions as the delivery conduit for the signals to skin cells which stimulate the cells to perform critical functions such as tissue repair. When the ECM is damaged, through environmental exposure or the normal aging process, the skin develops an undesirable aged appearance, such as wrinkling, due in part to the compromised structural integrity of fibrous proteins within the matrix, such as collagen or elastin. Thus, it is desirable to develop active ingredients, and cosmetics comprising such active ingredients, for reducing the damage to the existing fibrous proteins within the skin or alternatively, stimulating the production of more of these proteins. For example, human leukocyte elastase is a serine protease released by activated white blood cells and is capable of causing extensive damage to many of the ECM protein components, particularly elastin, in skin exposed to UV light or other irritant stimulus. Thus, it would be advantageous for a cosmetic to have an inhibitory effect on this protease in order to protect against damage to the ECM.
Numerous compounds have been described in the cosmetic field as being beneficial to the ECM or otherwise directed to delaying, minimizing or eliminating signs of aging or environmental damage to the skin. However, as increasing numbers of consumers begin to demand products that have a perceived “natural” origin, there is a continuing need to formulate cosmetic compounds using newly developed skin care actives based on plants and the like.
Marine plants, such as algae, have developed mechanisms and chemistries to protect and defend against the extreme environmental conditions of the sea, such as desiccation (high salt), solar radiation and high pressure, and have adapted to become capable of surviving in diverse marine environments. Algae can range from microscopic unicellular organisms to kelp seaweeds that exceed 100 meters in length, and are classified according to color—blue, red, green and brown. Many of these algae have both historically been and continue to be utilized for health and beauty as part of medicinal remedies, daily diets or dietary supplements, or cosmetics.
Surprisingly, it has been found that extracts and bioferments originating from the seaweed genus Sarcodiotheca provide anti-aging benefits when used as a skin care active in a cosmetic and applied to the skin, for example by inhibiting elastase and/or stimulating collagen production.
Thus, the present invention relates to marine extracts, particularly extracts of Sarcodiotheca, for use in cosmetic compositions to improve the condition of the skin and/or to provide anti-aging effects.
The present invention also relates to biofermentions (also referred to herein as “bioferments”) of Sarcodiotheca for use in cosmetic compositions to improve the condition of the skin and/or to provide anti-aging effects, optionally mixed with extracts of other red algae or with human growth factor.
The present invention further relates to the cosmetic use of the described marine extracts and bioferments to stimulate collagen production and/or inhibit human leukocyte elastase in the skin.
Additionally, the present invention relates to the cosmetic use of the described marine extracts and bioferments to provide an antioxidant effect to the skin.
The present invention also relates to cosmetic compositions, such as gels, lotions or creams, comprising safe and effective amounts of the marine extracts and/or bioferments of the present invention.
These and other features and advantages of the present invention will become evident to those skilled in the art from a reading of the present disclosure.